Seasoned Thoughts

Black & White

2010-10-26T20:02:00.003-04:00

I’ve been working in a professional kitchen for just over a year now. In my time as a pro-cook I’ve been in and out of 4 kitchens; not because I’ve jumped from one job to another but because of stages (working in another kitchen on a volunteer basis to experience their food and daily operations).

One thing I’ve learned to love about the kitchen world is that it’s very Black and White world. You either have the skills to perform or you don’t. Cooking, like so many other crafts is a brutally honest reflection of one’s own abilities. Some days you’ll crumble, some you’ll be at your best and others you’ll just struggle through. Each day is a new challenge and a new opportunity to proves oneself and one’s worth.

In short, cooking is cooking, you can do it or you can’t. I don’t care if you’re Black, Yellow, or White, if you’re Homosexual or Straight, Christian, Buddhist or Muslim. In the end all that matters is the food and if you can cut as a cook or not; skills are honest it doesn’t matter the type of person they come from; everyone is equal, things like race, orientation and creed don’t matter.

Excess at its finest

2009-08-03T00:37:00.003-04:00

Au Pied de, a temple to all things fatty and artery hardening, a cardiac surgeon’s worst nightmare. It draws foodies and gluttons from afar, after all, it has drawn me from my home base in Toronto. There’s a lineup of anxious diners waiting to be seated and the restaurant is packed so full there’s barely elbowroom; surely a good sign of the meal to come.

Chef and Owner of PDC, Martin Picard, is a lover of decadent foods and excess. He has a special penchant for Foie Gras, the engorged fatty liver of a duck. This wonderfully delicious fare is likely one of the deadliest and fattiest foods ever grace the face of this planet. However, Foie Gras is not without criticism.

In the past years Foie and its relatively niche industry has been under attack for its believed cruelties to ducks and geese. Restaurants have removed it from their menu, nations have banned production and even the great food city of Chicago was once forbidden from selling this delectable treat.

Fortunately for me, both Martin and Quebec have no qualms about Foie. PDC is a haven for Foie Gras feigns and their menu is plagued with it. This is exactly what I came to the restaurant for, to overindulge on Foie Gras.

Upon entry, there is nothing visually stunning about the restaurant. An open kitchen with a bar flanks the left side of the restaurant and a mirrored wall on the right only makes the space look slightly larger. The tables and their chairs are simple wood and the dinnerware is well used and scuffed. The restaurant’s staff, both servers and cooks, are wearing t-shirts, denim and runners. There’s every bit a sense here that PDC could be a pre-packaged utility restaurant.

In the restaurant, there’s a sense of chaos in the air. Servers squeeze between narrow tables, dodge standing customers and even push past their own comrades. Everything appears rushed and forced; the ballet of fine dinning has definitely left this restaurant. But perhaps it’s a controlled chaos to them. There’s a buzz in the restaurant and it’s quite loud due to the capacity crowd, open kitchen and jousting servers.

Some believe that this is Martin giving the finger to the world of fine dinning. He is unequivocally proving that good food can come without the packaged pompousness, pretention, primping or polishing.

Before I can even begin to describe the actual food we ordered I have to be clear on the disappointment of the bread. Served in a stainless steel mixing bowl, thick cuts of bread were complemented with a matching miniature stainless steel ramekin of butter. The bread was fine, but the butter, something so simple and neigh impossible to get wrong, was frozen solid. I understand that I was going to consume a frightening amount of calories and fat but I didn’t need the exercise trying to wrestle this non-threatening dairy product. Struggling to scrape off shavings of butter and nearly bending my only knife I admit defeat. Thwarted, I resort to eating the bread without it. I’m not impressed but I’m still hopeful that things would soon change.

The meal begins with the foie gras cromesquis ($4). The cromesquis is a cube of Foie Gras Terrine breaded and deep fried. It eats like savory Truffle, filled with a warm liquid Foie Gras center that explodes in your mouth. It’s an ethereal experience and a near perfect amuse bouche. The dish is only tarnished by the fact that it was served on a very obviously chipped plate.

A very generous helping of foie gras terrine came next ($25). Rich, creamy and unctuous it was spread onto thick cut toast points and accompanied with apricot jelly. Nothing fabulous about the toast or jelly, the terrine was clearly the star. Spreading it like butter, I dreamt of substituting other foods in lieu of the toast. Scones, bagels, and muffins oh my! How life could be improved, and vastly shortened, with a little daily dose of foie gras.

Following the terrine came our seafood course, the Tempura Soft Shell Crab ($20). Oh goody! A deep fried seafood palette cleaner to break up this expedition of Foie. Although typical, the crab is excellently paired with a strongly Vietnamese influenced vinegar dipping sauce.

PDC’s iconic Duck in a Can ($36), a dish born of either genius or sheer madness, is something to behold. Margret duck breast, Foie Gras, and Sauce cooked in a can and served table side. Looking at the can I can only think of L’Tour d’Argent’s Pressed Duck meeting Dr. Frankenstein in the guise of Martin Picard. While a fascinating and ingenious idea, it sorely lacks in execution. The duck is overcooked, dry and tough and the normally luxurious fatty skin was entirely inedible. The redeeming qualities of this dish come from the wonderfully rich sauce, mashed potatoes and toast. Although, only likely due to copious amounts of butter, duck fat and foie gras.

The foie gras poutine ($23) arrives and we hope it’ll be a pleasant recovery from the canned duck. French fries cooked in duck fat, cheese curds, foie gras poutine sauce and a slice of seared foie gras. Obscene is the only word that comes to mind. I’m aware that I could find this nearly exact dish closer to home (Bier Market, Café du Lac) but there’s something more justified about eating it here in Montreal, at PDC. The only fault I find is over seasoning, easily remedied by consuming more wine. The foie gras poutine sauce, like almost everything else, is treacherously rich; we mop up any left over with some bread.

Our server returns to our table, looking impressed that we’ve consumed everything, he grins and offers us dessert. Hunched over, breathing heavily and looking up to him I can only think, “He’s trying to kill me and I can’t run.” I concede to the meal and as politely as possible I say for no more. Our server smiles, pleased by the idea of our gluttony and suffering and retreats back into the crowded room.

I glance around the room and see other diners joining me in my gluttonous state. Many have a glazed look in their eyes. Others are still slowly chewing away not wanting to be trounced by a plate of food. To my right, an even sadder scene occurs, I see fear in a man’s eyes as he realizes he’s only consumed half his order of the PDC Pork Chop; a chop so large it would give Fred Flintstone a run for his money. In my field of view, the common factor among everyone is how pleased and tranquil everyone appears.

This is what those who come to dine at Au Pied de Cochon come for, the sheer madness of excess and gluttony. PDC should be on the list of every foodie’s list of places to eat. The service and ambiance isn’t noteworthy but the food and sheer madness of it is enough to warrant a trip. Luckily for us Toronto-ians, Montreal is only a short drive away.

Au Pied de Cochon

Address: 536 Duluth St. Montreal QC – 514 281 1114
Three Stars out of Four
Chef: Martin Picard
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 5:00 PM to Midnight
Reservations: Yes, absolutely necessary but they do accept walk-ins
Wheelchair Access: Accessible
Washrooms: Clean and bright with deep sinks. Outfitted with a television to watch the kitchen
Price Range: Dinner for two with wine $150

This was a review I wrote for a school assignment.

Technique, Talent and Luck

2009-05-19T19:40:00.001-04:00

A group of my close friends are artists; I've been friends with them for years and we will likely remain friends for the years to come. Even though they're artists and practitioners of a different craft we still have much in common to talk about.

My friend German, who's devotion to art rivals my devotion to cooking, is one who I sometimes have the best conversations with. We often talk about technique, skill, the learning process and
more. Even thought our tools, mediums, and skill sets are vastly different we can find common ground and draw many parallels. We have a great respect and interest and for each others work.

Recently, via Twitter, German expressed his thoughts on Technique and Talent. I don't think I could adequately express the ideas in a more succinct, fundamental and fluid form.

Adequate technique provides the most opportunity for honest self-expression, not talent.

You either have talent or you don't but any one can create great works with a solid technical foundation.

Talent depends on luck for success. With the proper technique one makes their own luck

I love technique. I love talking about technique. I love discussing it with other individuals, that have the same fundamental respect for the techniques of their craft as I do for mine. I can't stress the importance of learning the fundamentals enough.

Litmus Test

2009-04-19T12:50:00.006-04:00

Some argue that the litmus test of a good cook is to make a Classical French Omelette. The ingredients are simple and so are the results. However, moving from Point A to Point B is more complex than it lends itself to be.

The process of cooking a Classical Omelette displays competence in timing, heat control, knowledge of ingredients, and fundamental technique. All of those things from just three eggs, butter, salt and pepper and a non-stick pan. The entire cooking process takes less than a minute, 30 seconds more or less can spell disaster for both cook and omelette.

I'm not a huge fan of Omelettes but I love the process. I love technique. Anyone who knows me will hear me say that I love the fundamentals. What can be more fundamental than an egg (philosophically and practically)?

So how do I do? Am I competent?

April 2008

April 2009

I'm pretty competent it seems. And I'm getting better.

Last Meal

2009-03-06T17:33:00.000-05:00

If I were to perish tomorrow by rapture, natural disaster, extreme violence, stupidity or otherwise this is what I would want my last meal to be. There would be no lobster, foie gras, truffle, caviar, wine or cream. Only this...

Chicken braised in Dark Soy Sauce and Ginger

...with a bowl of Jasmine Rice and a pot of Jasmine Tea to end the meal.

I never ate a lot as a kid, in fact, I ate so little that my family worried about me. I'd struggle to finish a cup of rice. And then my Grandmother would cook that dish for me. A simple dish using only three major ingredients and eaten only with white rice. I ate plates of the stuff.

This food was prepared by Grandmother who stood no taller than 5 feet, weighed no more than 100 lbs and had a pacemaker helping her loving heart.It's probably been 15 years since the last and final time she cooked this for me.

I can make it but it never tastes the same and it never will.

Natural Artistry

2009-03-01T12:33:00.004-05:00

I often find myself asking if artistry is possibility in cooking. And then, for the second time, I watched this video:

I was nearly moved to tears.

I watched this presentation at Ferran Adrià's visit toToronto. It's from the DVD accompaniment to the Natura cookbook. Natura was authored by Albert Adrià, former Pastry Chef at elBulli (I've just heard he has left the elBulli team, a devastating blow to the restaurant).

I'm still a firm believer food is first and foremost a craft. However, it does have the ability to transcend boundaries and incite emotions. Although not an easy task, when it does happen artistry is achieved and a new level of cooking begins.

Antiquated

2009-02-26T22:04:00.001-05:00

I was asked about what knife cuts are antiquated. German, old buddy, this one's for you.

In my humblest opinion, the two antiquated knife cuts are Tourné and the Fluting of mushroom caps. They're not common cuts in the modern kitchen as they're time consuming and difficult to do. However, they result in very elegant presentations.

Tourné: To carve vegetable into a football shape with seven equal sides (heptagon). This is accomplished often by using a specially designed paring knife with a curved blade known as a tourné knife or bird beak parer.

Fluted Mushrooms: Using a pairing knife a spiral design is carved into the caps of the mushrooms.

A lot of people will whine, moan and complain when having to do these cuts. And then there are some mad enough that they want to perfect them. Knowing that having this skill is just another part in the complete repertoire of being a cook.

What I enjoy in performing the cuts is the connection to my knife, the test of dexterity and skill, the focus required and knowing that I'm differentiating myself from thousands of others.

The above photo is my first ever attempt at the touré and my second at fluting mushrooms. I'm quite pleased but I can always be better. That said, I'm sure carrots are on sale somewhere...

David Chang - Character Approved

2009-02-24T22:46:00.003-05:00

A great Chef with a great message.

Skill

2009-02-17T22:12:00.000-05:00

A while back I was explaining knife cuts and techniques to a friend. He stopped me mid sentence and posed the question of, "Why are knife skills so important?" I never gave much thought about the importance of knife skill before he asked me the question. What amused me is that the answer came very naturally and I didn't have to ponder or search for it.

In the practical sense, knife skills are important because it's central to the preparation of food:
- Proper fabrication ensures little waste or produce or meat
- Precise, accurate and even knife cuts promote even and proper cooking
- Clean cuts, nice lines and delicacy give beauty to a finished product

The requirement for good knife skills permeate the cooking process from start to finish. It's an essential skill to learn and posess in order to produce good quality food.

The kitchen knife is also the tool of a cook. Skill in using the knife distinguishes the professional from the home cook, the devoted from the enthusiast. Devotion in learning the techniques and excelling in them is part of the cook identity. Although several knife cuts may be antiquated they connect the cook to a long and treasured history (again, it becomes a skill that sets them apart).

My skill with a knife is the beginning to great food.
My skill with a knife is what sets me apart and makes me different.
My skill with a knife is of fundamental importantance.

books

2009-02-14T09:31:00.004-05:00

I reorganized my bookshelf yesterday night. I love my books.

There's only a few books I regret purchasing. Dishing with Style and Working with Plate were both rather useless and taught me nothing about plate presentation. I also have two editions of On Cooking. I had to purchase the Canadian Edition for school. I should have checked more closely when purchasing the non-Canadian edition.

You can see the books from my past life at the bottom. I don't regret owning those at all.

Tempting perfection

2009-02-08T15:49:00.001-05:00

A follow up to previous post.

Julienne & Brunoise of Carrot

This is what it means to strive for perfection. This is what it means to have good fundamentals as a cook. This is beauty in the kitchen at its simplest and rawest form (no pun intended).

You can either can do it or you can't, there's no possibility of lying. Skills are always honest.

Salt

2009-02-07T16:26:00.000-05:00

One of the most important skills to learn as a cook is how to taste. Taste is the sensory perception of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami (some would consider metallic another primary taste); these are the basic primary tastes. Flavour is the combined effect that the primary tastes and other volatile chemical compounds found in food has on sensory system. Everyone tastes something every day of their life but we seldom pay close attention to the taste and flavours being encountered.

The job of a cook is to prepare flavourful foods and to do so requires understanding of taste and flavour. Seasoning foods during the cooking process is the most fundamental technique that will have the most profound impact on the dish's final flavour. Seasoning is a fundamental technique.

The use of salt in cooking is complex even though the application of salt appears to be simple. Under seasoned foods are bland while foods that are over seasoned are unpalatable. Perfectly seasoned food brings flavours forward, awakes the palate and makes us crave for more. It is understanding these effects that salt has on foods that must be understood.

A cook must understand these effects and apply them while cooking in order to win the perfect flavour. Want a simple demonstration on the effects of salt? Eat a slice of tomato and then try one with a pinch of salt. Salt is really wonderful stuff.

piscis

2009-02-07T15:53:00.001-05:00

I had a menu design assignment for one of my classes at school. The assignment was to design a menu with 1 each appetizer, entree and dessert. I decided to go overkill and wrote a full on menu for a fictional restaurant.

The restaurant is named Piscis Seafood Bistro. Piscis is Latin for "A Fish" where the more popular word, Pisces, means a pair of fish. I went for a very casual menu with food that isn't fussy but has great, clean flavour profiles. What I'm really proud of is that I wrote the menu to be balanced on the kitchen so that no station will be slammed with orders. I even wrote a short wine list for the menu that matches with the food.

I'm really happy with this assignment. It allowed me to be creative and really think about food. Even though the restaurant is fictional I feel really close to it. In a weird way its become a part of me.

The beautiful design and layout is thanks to German Shible and the photographs are courtesy of Stacy Weber.

Photoshoot

2009-01-28T21:47:00.001-05:00

I was fortunate enough to work with a great photographer, Stacy Weber. Stacy emailed my Program Coordinator asking for a culinary student to help her style food for an assignment. The Coordinator then forwarded the email to the students enrolled in Culinary Management. I emailed her back with some of my food photos and we paired up to work on a project.

The food that we shot wasn't my typical refined plating and styling but I'm very pleased. We did a seafood menu theme; something you'd eat at a harbor side restaurant.

I really enjoyed working with Stacy, the whole photo shoot was a very positive experience. What I really loved was working with someone who had that same attention to detail as I do. I believe we will be working together again in the near future.

Julienne & Brunoise

2009-01-18T17:37:00.000-05:00

My first week of school has come and gone and I can safely say that I'm no worse for wear.

The first practical classes have been devoted largely towards familiarization of our tools and classical knife cuts. In short, we're beginning with the fundamentals. I love the fundamentals. The first knife cuts we were told to produce were a julienne and brunoise of carrot.

The classical knife cut called julienne is defined as a stick cut to the dimensions of 2 mm x 2 mm x 5 cm. The brunoise cut are cubes formed from the julienne sticks taking on dimensions of 2 mm x 2 mm x 2 mm.

There's something beautiful about these cuts and the skill it takes to produce them. There is the focus, discipline, and attention to detail that must be attended to when performing the cuts to the exact measurements specified. There's also the connection to the knife, the tool of a cook. A sharp knife helps this process immensely and there's further skill taken to keep and maintain a sharp blade.

Personally, there's the search for perfection in looking for exact uniformity in every single sliver and cube of carrot. Maybe that's what I love. That search for perfection and the knowledge that I'm creating order from a form of chaos.

Order Up, One Education!

2009-01-11T21:06:00.000-05:00

Tomorrow is my first day of school, culinary school. It's the beginning that I've been waiting to come for nearly three years. I'm not scared, nervous or excited about the prospect of beginning school; it's simply part of the journey I've been on for some time.

This weekend I re-read the book that probably started everything for me, Michael Rulhman's The Making of a Chef. I thought it would be fitting to read about the life of a culinary student albeit at a better school hundreds of kilometres away.

The book has put me in a good frame of mind. I feel readied, my mental mis en place is checked off, I'm good to go. I want to ask questions, I want to learn, I want to experience.

Ordering, one education.
Fire, one journey.
Pick up, life.

Cook vs. Chef

2009-01-03T00:06:00.004-05:00

"A cook and a chef are different entities. Chef is a title. A chef can be good or bad or everything in between; he or she can be a hotel chef, restaurant chef, TV chef, personal chef, or a corporate chef. Chef denotes a job. But when you are a cook that is who you are. It's your spine and soul. It suffuses all that you touch."

I've seen this quote being cited by both Michael Ruhlman and Eric Ripert. I'm not sure who said it but it's a damn good quote.

Hospitality

2008-12-17T22:59:00.000-05:00

At the very basic the job of a Cook is to feed people. This simple act is one of huge generosity; the Cook prepares food with the basic fundamental principle to feed people who are hungry. The need for food is primal; according to Maslow it is a physiological need that must be fulfilled before we can attend to our other desires. The fact that Cooks help fulfill and satisfy this need for others, by nature, makes them very hospitable and generous individuals by nature.

Being inherently hospitable and helpful people we often find it hard to say no to people and enjoy helping whenever and wherever possible. We're often aware of our nature and sometimes we have to draw the line on what we can and cannot do; it's not easy to say no.

Hospitality is the nature which this profession revolves; serving and pleasing others. That said, even though we often say yes to many things and go out of our way it does not mean we like to be taken advantage of. We're aware of when this occurs and it hurts; we like to serve by choice not by obligation.

Crabs to the Slaughter

2008-12-11T21:33:00.000-05:00

I've been waiting for live crab to go on sale for several weeks. This past weekend they finally went on sale at my local T&T for $3.99/lb; a total steal. I trekked down to the store and stood in front of a large tank filled to the brim with Dungeness Crabs scrambling to climb out. Clutching a gargantuan set of tongs, I picked out four boisterous crabs; all of them fought back as I attempted to remove them from the tank. I figured that my logic of feisty equaling fresh was pretty sound.

I took the four of them home and stashed them in a cooler until they'd be slaughtered. I prepared my mis en place and all the time I was watching the clock. I was waiting, almost dreading, for the minute I'd slaughter the crabs. And then, it came.

I've slaughtered crabs and lobsters before but it was different this time. This time, I felt closer to the product and thought more about how I'd be taking the life of an animal to feed myself. Maybe this means I've grown as a cook and have taken that step in learning what it means to respect your product.

I took the crab, flipped it on to its back and plunged a Chef's Knife into it's Abdomen just above its apron. I hoped the one swift stab was to kill the crab as quickly as possible. It seemed to work. I quickly dispatched each crab, cleaned and dismembered them and then immediately set onto cooking.

This dish, the national dish of Singapore, has always been a favourite. Chili Crab, has a great balance of flavours ranging between sweet, savory and spicy. It's a thrill to eat with nothing more than a bowl of steamed rice or some good bread. Although this is not traditionally made with Dungeness Crab it was still good eats.

But in the end, this wasn't about the food. It was about learning respect for my product and doing it justice. I killed an animal, four animals, so I could eat. Respect for the product, those animals, was the first step in creating something worthy of eating.

Respect and wanting to do the product justice will result in great food every time. I'm sure of it.

Evolution of an Injury

2008-11-26T20:34:00.001-05:00

I've said previously that injuries such as cuts, scrapes, and burns are common from working in the kitchen. In fact, I've written about this subject before.

Recently, I cut myself while chopping parsley. It was probably the worst kitchen/knife related injury to date.

I had sliced a corner of my thumb clean off. I bled profusely and had a hard time stopping the bleeding; it took about 30 minutes of applied pressure. I went through several band-aids and pieces of gauze as the night carried on but it was fine, I was fine.

This injury was not brought about by carelessness or distraction, it was caused by a flaw in fundamental technique. And that makes me angrier than anything else. I have a tendencies not to tuck my thumb away as I chop, this resulted in me slicing the portion of my thumb off. This painful occurrence tells me that I need to change, I need to evolve, I need to get better.

Knife skills aside, this entire incident is a giant metaphor for practicing this craft, my craft. Evolve or be left behind. If we don't strive to be better at what we do every day or have that intrinsic yearning need to change, learn, and adapt we only get left behind. Eventually becoming a relic of the past.

I'm changing my technique. I'll improve my knife skills. I don't want to cut myself again.

Singaporean Heritage

2008-10-20T21:33:00.000-04:00

I was watching an episode of No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain this past weekend. The aforementioned episode was featuring Singapore cuisine in all it's glory. My parents immigrated to Canada from Singapore. I consider myself a Canuck through and through but I know I have an innate connection to Chinese food and culture.

Singapore's geographical location as the gateway between the West/East has led to the melding of cuisines to create Nonya food. Singapore is a food country, the natives live to eat and not eat to live; food is everything. While filming, Bourdain was approached by a stranger about how to eat roast duck. Bourdain's conversation with the man is as follows:

Bourdain: "Everyone in this city, this county, has a strong opinion on food and how's it's to be eaten."
Singaporean Stranger: "Yeah, it's the only fricken' heritage we have."

So maybe, just maybe, it's in my blood to be a foodie. Destiny? Preordained? Fate? Nah, I don't believe in any of that bullshit. I'm a foodie and that's because I love food and food loves me. I wouldn't call any of this ironic or serendipitous, it simply just is.

And on one final note, the next time I'm in Singapore I have to eat this:

Sup Tulang - Bone Soup

sup tulang Popular hawker dish. ‘Sup tulang’ literally means ‘bone soup’. This Indian Muslim dish consists of mutton leg and shin bones cooked in a spicy chilli sauce with a rich mutton soup base. The cartilage and marrow are eaten.

The Birds

2008-10-19T14:03:00.000-04:00

My oven broke down last week, the bottom element had burnt out and sent sparks flying. We had just replaced the element so I decided this would be a good weekend to put it to the test by roasting a chicken. Roasting a chicken isn't a simple task, a good roasted chicken takes skill. I'm almost certain that there are too many people eating overcooked and dried out chicken. A good roast chicken is moist, tender, flavourful and has a wonderful crisp skin. It's not hard to achieve it simply takes patience and attentiveness.

I purchased a grain fed and raised without antibiotics chicken. It was a plump bird weighing in at just over 3 pounds. The process for my roast chicken is to brine, truss, season and roast. Simple, but still a time consuming process that requires planning and the proper preparation.

My step-mother owns a canary who's cage is in the kitchen. As I was preparing the chicken we had a bit of a dialogue:

*Loud chirping*
"What? This? (motioning to the chicken) This isn't my fault, don't look at me!"
*Chirping changes to loud singing*
"You're a loud little bugger."
*Singing continues*
"I'm not afraid to cook you."
*Silence*

It was a humorous moment that I shared with the canary.

So how did the chicken turn out?

My oven is working just fine, again. Here's to good food and good company, even if my company was only a canar

Chef Ferran Adrià

2008-10-09T23:48:00.001-04:00

I was fortunate enough to attend an Interview and Q&A session with Ferran Adrià this week. I was told a week earlier about his appearance in Toronto and at first was reluctant to go because of the cost. However, I rethought my decision and figured that I would be incredibly fortunate to attend this event.

The afternoon was to be an Interview followed by a Question & Answer session from the audience. However, Chef Adrià came with a presentation. He didn't talk about food, technique, theory, or cooking, instead he presented us with his philosophy. Philosophy of what it means to cook, eat, create, and work as a cook.

I think I'd be doing a great disservice and injustice to the man if I attempted to summarize his entire presentation. The two most significant points of his lecture, to me (as I understood them), were:

Technique

Everything is based upon technique. For him to be creative and truly revolutionary everything was upon the basis of technique. He spoke using the metaphor of creating a new written language; that language being based upon single characters or letters, the techniques. From this foundation of technique you built and composed recipes and dishes in the same sense that you built words. Words are then naturally followed by sentences and further followed by phrases and paragraphs. Technique is the fundamental basis of everything.

Creativity

"If someone hands you a card that says Creative, do not believe them."

Ferran spoke about creativity and how anything can be the basis of new creation and ideas. Creation is simply always there, it is the ability to take hold of the opportunity of creation that is special on its own.

Chef Adrià is so far ahead of our time, he has nothing but himself and his creations to benchmark against. He is the Leonardo da Vinci of the modern gastronomic revolution. The best Chef in the world who cooks at the best restaurant in the world.

Food NETwork

2008-10-05T17:23:00.003-04:00

Somehow my food has ended up on other places on the WWW where I don't post to.

http://tastespotting.com/detail/11636

http://recipe-news-info.my-ani.com/node/1286027

I was asked permission for the Taste Spotting post but not for the My-Ani post. In fact, I'm not bothered by the Taste Spotting post as it still gives me credit on my work the latter website does not. In fact, the second website is linking the photo directly to my Photobucket. I'm amazed that they don't even attempt to host the image on their own.

I've been saying this for the longest time but I really need to begin watermarking/marking my images to protect my intellectual property.

"You're not good enough..."

2008-10-04T16:04:00.001-04:00

At work I was asked to replicate several recipes for an upcoming magazine launch. The purpose of the exercise was for marketing to review the recipes developed by our Chefs for the magazine. They were simple recipes but a lot needed to be done with the utmost accuracy; everything needed to be measured and timed.

I prepared my mis en place in the morning, taped the recipes onto the counter, and had felt pretty good about myself. I thought everything would fall in place and I was well prepared. I know I had felt nervous as this was my first time doing this but they weren't difficult recipes. Still, I don't know exactly where the nervousness came from, I wish I did.

When it came down to cooking I moved with speed and precision. My mis was good but I soon learned that it wasn't good enough. I was making a salad and left out an ingredient, peas. I was supposed to measure out a cup of frozen peas, microwave, shock, mix with remaining ingredients. I got caught up in other recipes and left out the peas from the recipe, I had faltered.

When I realized this gaff I instantly knew that I wasn't good enough. I had made a glaring error and the only person to blame was myself. I needed to focus more intensely and plan and prepare better. In my head I heard a repeated echo of, "You're not good enough, you're not good enough..." over and over again.

It's true, I'm not good enough, but I'll get better and better. Making errors and mistakes is understandable, if not forgivable. It's what the young cook does with their mistakes that matters.

The First Step

2008-09-30T23:09:00.000-04:00

I've seen both schools, considered my options, made a decision and am now following through. I've accepted my offer of admission to Humber College for the 16 month accelerated Culinary Management program beginning January 2009. It feels good to have finally made a decision about school and know where I'll be begin as a cook.

I can't say that I'm excited about school but I'm sure I'll feel anxiety and excitement closer to the date. I look forward to being in school, being among like minded peers, cooking food I normally would not do at home, and most importantly, I look forward to learning.

The curriculum outline for the Culinary Management Program is as follows.

Semester 1 (27 hours/week)
CULN 115 Nutritional Theory
CULN 118 Business and Career Management
CULN 120 Basic Gardemanger Practical
CULN 305 Basic Gardemanger Theory
CULN 678 Baking and Pastry Arts Level 1
CULN 812 Basic Contemporary Culinary Skills and Techniques
CULN 814 Basic Culinary Knowledge
HRT. 121 Food Service, Sanitation and Safety
COMM 200 College Writing Skills
MATH 904 Mathematics - Hospitality

Semester 2 (19 hours/week)
CULN 220 Butchery Practical
CULN 225 Introduction to Dining Room Service
CULN 406 Advanced Gardemanger Theory
CULN 826 Advanced Culinary Knowledge
CULN 828 Profit Concepts
CULN 842 Nutritional Cuisine, Practical
HUMA 024 Humanities
GNED General Education Elective

Semester 3 (29 hours/week)
CULN 778 Baking and Pastry Arts Level 2
CULN 832 Menu Planning and Design
CULN 836 Contemporary Fish and Seafood
CULN 840 Advanced Gardemanger and Charcuterie
CULN 857 À la carte Cuisine
CULN 873 Planning for Culinary Profit
HRT. 032 Discovering the World of Wine
COMM 300 Business Writing Skills
GNED General Education Elective

Semester 4 (19 hours/week)
CULN 122 Occupational Health and Safety
CULN 440 Asian Cuisine
CULN 837 Hotel/Restaurant Traineeship
CULN 846 The Chef's Table
CULN 854 Emerging Trends in Canadian Cuisine
CULN 858 Practical Culinary Skills Proficiency
CULN 878 Baking and Pastry Arts Level 3

In the new year this will be my life for 16 months. Never before have I spent such time devoted to cooking. I welcome the experience.

accepted

2008-09-18T20:04:00.005-04:00

The results are in and I've been accepted to every college I had applied for. I never really worried that I would not be accepted but it feels good to receive the letters and read the standard welcoming always printed bold letters.

To recap from this entry:

George Brown College - Culinary Management H100
Accepted September 18, 2008

Humber College - Culinary Management 01911
Accepted September 15, 2008

Niagara College - Culinary Management Co-Op 0435
Accepted June 25, 2008

I always knew I wasn't going to attend Niagara College, I just threw it in there. It now comes down to the big two: GBC and Humber. Choosing the schools to apply to and completing the application process was the easy part now the real difficulty begins. I need to make a decision.

After next week I'll have toured both schools and have had an opportunity to speak with staff and students. I'll be doing a Pro vs. Con list as well as a SWOT analysis. This is going to be the most important academic decision I'll ever make.

Allez Cuisine!

2008-09-09T21:54:00.003-04:00

I've long been a fan of Iron Chef and Iron Chef America. I've now discovered it's becoming a video game. This makes me want to purchase a Wii to play this and its other cooking games such as Order Up! and Cooking Mama.

The Chairman never looked so good

training

2008-08-30T19:58:00.000-04:00

I'm scheduled to begin culinary school in January 2009. Just four months away, I know that time will pass and it'll come quickly. In the advent of this I have decided to begin a self training session leading up to culinary school.

The purpose of training is to further hone my techniques and knowledge of the fundamental principles common in cooking. It is also an opportunity to prepare foods and recipes that I have never attempted exposing me to their inherent techniques and possibly new flavour profiles.

Along with the practical aspects cooking I will also explore the theoretical. A solid foundation in food theory is important as it provides an explanation of why specific techniques are applied or certain ingredients are used during the cooking process. I shall study and produce notes about various topics within food theory to further my knowledge on cooking.

Culinary school will teach me these techniques and recipes again but seeing them more than once will only enhance my skill set.

diamonds in the rough

2008-08-25T19:03:00.000-04:00

I am in firm belief that the business of a Cook is often highly misunderstood and downgraded by the general public. The business of being a Cook is regulated to preparing sustenance to provide nourishment to the masses; a simple one dimensional craft. At best, the Cook is thought of as an artist that creates beauty on the plate and for the palate. However, the role of the Cook is multifaceted and goes beyond the tasks of transforming raw ingredients into food or a blank plate into an artwork of sauces and garnishes.

For a Cook to elevate themselves above the plain of machine like operation they must excel in several fields of knowledge. While the basics of all culinary studies is devotion to a craft there is more to be learned and understood. The Cook must first understand the fundamentals of their craft and then go on to learn the fine points of artistry, the teachings of science, the past - anthropology, environmental concerns and causes, grace and hospitality, and so much more.

The business of food and cooking is constantly evolving, the Cook must be devoted to the ever continuing pursuit of knowledge to better themselves in their trade. Thus, like the diamond, greater brilliance is achieved with more facets.

the next step

2008-06-22T15:45:00.004-04:00

Today, I've taken the next big step in my gastronomic and culinary journey. I've applied to culinary school for the January 2009 intake. This is not just a big step, this is a GIANT leap for me. Beginning this process feels justified; as dramatic as this sounds, it is as if my entire life has been leading up to this point.

I've applied for the two year Culinary Management program at three schools. My choice really only comes down to two of the local schools. I threw in the third just to simply have one more.

George Brown College - Culinary Management H100
Humber College - Culinary Management 01911
Niagara College - Culinary Management Co-Op 0435

They're all good schools but I'll make an appropriate decision when the time comes. I'll have to speak to people, visit campuses, and really learn the ins and outs of each school. I was never this prepared or thorough when applying for University. Something about Culinary School seems to be grander.

This is the finite starting point of a great journey.

cream

2008-05-19T17:58:00.003-04:00

I come from an ice cream eating family. We've cut back on our consumption in recent years but prior to that we would always have at least 3 or 4 tubs of ice cream in our large freezer. My father loves his ice cream and my sister loves anything decadent; unfortunately for my sister she's also lactose intolerant.

Two years ago I purchased my own ice cream maker. Once you know the basics of how to create an ice cream base the possibilities become endless. Almost any flavour can be added to the base to create a different ice cream, it's truly wonderful and versatile stuff. I normally stick to making vanilla ice cream but I have had the recent the urge to branch out into flavours.

Ever since my first Japanese dinner I've been a giant fan of Green Tea Ice Cream. I've always wanted to make it but for some reason I never really bothered - until this weekend. However, I slightly altered my plans and made Jasmine Tea Ice Cream. I figured, I'm Chinese, I have lots of it in the house, it feels like something a little closer to home.

The end result was great, it's akin to Green Tea Ice Cream but slightly different. It rich, creamy, and has a warmth from the tea. Its simply a pleasure to eat.

So what's next? Black Pepper Ice Cream? Or should I try to imitate Chef Heston Blumenthal and go left field with something like Bacon and Eggs? The possibilities are endless...

ouchie

2008-04-29T21:32:00.001-04:00

Cuts, burns, scrapes, and scars are part of working in a kitchen. Injuries are pretty common in the kitchen; sharp knives, hot stoves, steam, oil, cookware, and more are all hazards. Every movement in a kitchen should be done with a sense of urgency. Movement is never rushed even though it may look that way. Everything is achieved through precise focus or innate instinct.

The injuries one sustains while working don't feel painful or hurt. Instead, they're simply just a nuisance to deal. They slow you down and have to tend to them, injuries throw you off stride. They're primarily caused because you rushed what you were doing or weren't concentrating on the task at hand.

I've sustained numerous cuts, nicks, and burns. I've carved off pieces from my fingers, bled profusely, scalded myself, and have heard a hot pan sizzle in my bare hand. None of them have been extremely painful. They've all just been a stinging reminder that I've slipped up somewhere in my work.

white jacket

2008-04-06T23:03:00.000-04:00

The white chef coat is probably one of the most recognizable physical feature of all cooks. It's made of thick cotton to protect from the heat of the kitchen, rolled back French cuffs, thermometer sleeve pockets, and double breasted so stains can be hidden quickly. To me, wearing this jacket signifies the devotion to cooking seriously.

Anyone that knows me and sees me in person will say that I wear a lot of black. It's true, I've worn a lot of dark colours since my teenage years. It's only recently that I've begun to branch out into the world of colours. If I was ever caught wearing white it would be an undershirt. Having me wearing white or a lot of colours and my friends will probably say it will throw off the natural balance of the world.

I work in a corporate office and am one of two people to wear chef whites. I'm noticeably different from everyone else with dress shirts. The other person wearing whites only has the coat on when cooking, my coat goes on in the morning and doesn't come off until I leave. Some probably think this practice is odd but the coat is something physical that defines me.

I really like wearing the coat and the feelings it bring. It symbolizes what I'm working towards and the person that I am slowly becoming. It fits me and who I am, and that's all that matters.

I love the smell of rot in the morning...

2008-04-03T22:10:00.000-04:00

It smells like, victory....

Dry aging meat is something that top restaurants around the world will do. Usually this process must occur in very controlled conditions of temperature and humidity as to ensure proper aging. After all, the meat is just being allowed to rot. I love food, I'm also daring with what I eat and how I experiment. In short, I dry aged a standing rib roast in my home refrigerator.

Dry aging is a timely process. As the meat is allowed to age it dries out and loses moisture, this concentrates the beef flavour. A downside to this is that the loss in weight (from the lost water) increases the cost of the meat. Also, enzymes within the meat break downs the muscle tissues and results in a tenderer piece of meat.

I love roast beef, specifically, I love standing rib roasts. I refuse to call a standing rib roast, "prime rib" unless the beef has come cut from USDA certified Prime beef. If I called every rib roast as prime rib then I may as well call canned tuna "sushi grade tuna". They're two completely different things. Great beef is something special and something to be appreciated. Cooking a rib roast can be simple but for great results you need to begin with great beef, this is what the experiment was about.

I purchased a Canadian AA grade rib roast that weighed about 3 kg. I aged it in my fridge for 6 days and took photos every 48 hours to document that aging process and how it transformed the cut of meat. At the end of the process I trimmed the meat of leathery and dark portions as well as trimming a thin layer of dried out fat from the cap.

0 hours

48 hours

4 days

6 days

Trim

I seasoned the roast with kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper. I begin the roasting process at a high temperature to sear the meat and then lower the temperature to continue roast. The exact process is 450F for 15 minutes and then lowered to 300F and continue roasting for 15 minutes per pound. I actually learned this technique from the Chef at Home cooking show, this method has never failed me.

Cooking the roast was tricky due to the fact that it had lost water weight from drying out. I estimated that it lost at least 1.5 lbs and cooked it as if it were 5 lbs. Towards the last half hour of roasting I probed the meat using an instant read thermometer to ensure proper degree of doneness.

THE RESULT

Appearance: Medium-Rare beef. Red meat through the cut that dulls in colour towards the edges indicated a higher degree of doneness.

Aroma: Strong beef aroma. Most noticeable upon the first slice in the beef. Fat portions also had stronger beef aroma that expected.

Flavour: Stronger beef flavour in the portions closer to the exterior cut of the meat.

Texture: Tender meat. Most tender portions were those closer to the exterior of the meat. Well done portions were surprisingly tender, having a consistency typical of braised meats.

This experiment was worth it. Next time I want to do it for twice as long and with a better cut of beef. I'll up the ante from AA grade to AAA.

meeze

2008-03-30T17:58:00.001-04:00

Mise en place is French for "set in place". In the kitchen setting up a mise en place means to organize everything you need for what you are going to cook. Washing and preparing ingredients, setting aside cooking equipment, tools, and plates. Having a good mise en place is paramount to performing well in the kitchen. Efficiency of one's actions during cooking is so important, and it all begins with a good mise en place.

I love the organization of setting up a good mise, having everything perfectly placed in its own place, ready for battle. I'll even go beyond a physical set up and write down dish platings, timing of cooking, timing of plating, and more. I'm a fanatic when it comes to my mise. If I don't have a good mise I feel unsteady, slow, unorganized, and cluttered. I'm not in a good head space when I don't have a set up exactly the way I want it.

I'm in belief that having a good mise en place goes beyond just being physically prepared, it also helps you mentally prepare for your tasks ahead. A good performance begins with a good state of mind. Making sure you're prepared mentally for any task large or small and you always perform better.

In a way I kind of feel like Batman before he goes out to fight his war on crime. Victory stems from the almighty preparation time.

burnt food

2008-03-23T19:54:00.001-04:00

I've mentioned in a previous post, I don't make or create a lot of dessert type foods. However, the one dessert I've been able mastered is crème brûlée. I first became fascinated with crème brûlée during the winter of 2005. I saw it being prepared on the cooking show Chef at Home with Michael Smith. What probably fascinated me the most about the dish is the aspect of using a torch to create the caramelized sugar top. Big dangerous tool in the kitchen with lots of fire? Yes, please!

The first time I made crème brûlée I didn't have a torch so I settled for using the broil setting on a toaster oven - I wasn't at all pleased with the end result. From that one failure I was determined to learn to make the dish well. I spent about four months of trial and error to perfect my version of crème brûlée. I made several batches and tweaked the levels of sugar and cream of each until I finally got the flavour profile and texture I wanted.

The result?

I believe my crème brûlée is creamier in texture than the normal custard and not as sweet as other versions of this famous dish. A higher ratio of cream to egg yolks gives a creamier texture; custard that melts in your mouth and almost wants to run off the spoon. I use a low amount of sugar in the custard but make a strong caramelized layer on the top (using tubinado sugar) . Breaking the glass like layer of caramel into the custard gives wonderful bursts of sweetness that is mellowed out and balanced by the cool custard.

I love this dish. It's so simple in terms of its ingredients and flavours but it is also difficult to do well. I've been told my version is better than what you can find in most restaurants around where I live. Hearing that makes me glad but at the same time it makes me ask myself, "can I make it any better?"

Crêpe

2008-03-10T18:31:00.004-04:00

Anyone who has talked to me about my love for cooking has heard probably heard me say that I can't bake to save my life. It's true, I'm not much of a baker, I believe baking is an entirely different beast than cooking. I tend to burn anything with quantities of eggs, milk, sugar, and flour mixed together. I'm sure I could become proficient at baking if I practice the craft.

However, just because I'm not the greatest baker doesn't mean I can't do dessert. I make a killer crème brûlée but that's a story for a different post. I recently purchased March's issue of Gourmet Magazine and saw a picture of what appeared to be a crêpe cake, I got inspired and decided to make it with a Canadian twist.

I didn't use the recipe in the magazine but was simply inspired by the beautiful picture. I used my tried and true crêpe batter recipe and Canadianized the cake by using Maple Syrup and chopped walnuts. I'd say that it turned out pretty good, adding a drizzle of maple syrup and the cake just gets better.

I don't make enough desserts, I should try my hand at making more. I will probably attempt more desserts in the summer when more local fruit is available.

Cooking Wisdom

2008-03-08T14:00:00.008-05:00

At work I spend a lot of my time in the kitchen. I do have a cubicle in the office but I'm almost never at my desk. I'll often sit down for 2 - 5 minutes to check my email and then walk back to the kitchen to continue work. I'm constantly pushing myself at work and always striving to be better at what I do. I'm in search of perfection.

Chef Thomas Keller said the following:

"For me, that's one of the important things about cooking. What was good enough yesterday may not be good enough today."

Those words resonate through me and I believe everything about them. To grow, in anything we do, we need to constantly push ourselves and strive for better, search for that unattainable state of perfection.

I've been meaning to print out this quote and pin it up in my cubicle. Other people in the office have pictures of friends, family, and pets. I think it reminds them of their place outside of the working world and also brings a sense of comfort to work. For me, this quote won't give me comfort or joy but rather a desire to push harder with every passing day.

There are times when I screw up and I know that I have to rebound from those experiences, I have to come back better and stronger. I can always work a little faster and a little cleaner, I can be more organized and more efficient. I can be better than yesterday.

lend me your ears.

2008-02-18T19:05:00.002-05:00

I've recently become a strong believer of responsible eating and knowing where the food we eat comes from. I've said it for a while now but I believe a high majority of people are disconnected from their meat. They only see meat as coming in neatly plastic wrapped packages; they miss the part where that cut of meat came from a once living and breathing animal.

People often have trouble consuming cuts of meats when they realize they've come from something alive. The minute you start to eat something like liver, hearts, ears, or tongue you become to connected to that food and that animal. You realize that it was alive because you're aware that your body has those organs or features too.

This weekend I was out grocery shopping at a local Chinese supermarket. In their meat section they have some cuts that one would rarely, or never, find in the average grocery store. As I took my time browsing around I came across pig's ears. I was pretty fascinated with them and decided that this long weekend may be a good opportunity to try my hand at making them for the first time.

I started with this:

And ended up with this:

The entire process of cooking was pretty tedious. Two hours of slow poaching followed by a night of chilling, followed by slicing, and then finally a marinade. The pig's ears are served chilled and deliver a wonderful crunch from the cartilage and a satisfying chew from the skin and fat. The ears themselves don't have much flavor but deliver an wholly enjoyable mouthfeel.

All the flavors are very Asian in origin and distant from what I normally used doing. However, I'm learning and I'm treating this as part of Garde Manger. I've only just started to branch into that area of cooking and I now finding myself wanting to learn more.

I posted my adventure of cooking Pig's Ears on a cooking related community at LiveJournal. I received many favorable comments to what I had done. These are just some of the 150+ comments to what I had done.

"I love your entries because it's so clear that you really, really love food."

"If I didn't know what they were, I'd try them in a heartbeat, they look so good. If I did know what they were, I'd still try them because they look so good, though it might take me a minute longer."

"I totally expected this to be something gross and disgusting and I'm surprised that I'm interesting in trying this. You obviously did a good job in tempting me!"

It's comments like these that make me feel good about what I'm doing and where I'm going with food. I'm pushing myself, going in new directions, exploring new horizons, and learning new things. I'm growing as a cook and that's the most important thing for me. Also, by inspiring others and opening people's minds I feel as if I'm contributing to my craft, which is also important as I am connected to something larger than just what I am doing alone.

the boiling point.

2008-02-10T13:38:00.000-05:00

This past week, at work, I was introduced to a Chef of a private golf and country club somewhere near Hamilton, Ontario. I introduced myself, told him who I was and what I had planned to do. He looked me dead in the eye and asked me one question, "Why?" There were no words of encouragement, no smiles, and no jokes. He wanted to put me on the spot and know why. I knew the answer inside myself but my reply wasn't nearly as glamorous as I imagined it to be. I said it was what I wanted to do since I was 12 years old and it's something I can't really explain, it's what I love. This is not the answer I should have given.

So what's the reason to my madness? To this obsession with all things food. The simplest answer to this question, with the least amount of words, is that this is pure unadulterated passion. I love cooking, I love reading about food, learning about new foods, going to market, thinking of new flavours, and just talking about all things food. This is a passion I can't ignore.

"Why does a painter paint?" or "Why does a writer write?" or "Why does a carpenter build?" I strongly believe that the answer to these questions and a question of a similar nature applied to other professions should all be the same. Love and passion, having some of those things for what you want to do in life is so important.

The goals in my life have changed since I was 12 but the same passion is there. When I was younger I wanted nothing but to become a superstar chef. I wanted cookbooks, celebrities, TV shows, and more; I wanted to be famous. Now, I just want make good food, scratch that, I want to create amazing, incredible, life changing food. I want do the raw ingredients justice, and have my food appreciated by those who truly care. The one person who will relish every morsel and finds love in every bite is more important and fulfilling than what any TV show, book signing, or celebrity diner can offer.

My current goals are simpler and humbler. But I know that they wont be any easier to attain.

the cutting edge.

2008-02-01T19:49:00.000-05:00

The essential tool of any serious cook is a serious knife. The knife is the one tool that every cook must use if they plan to make food, without the usage of a knife one is most likely not cooking but only reheating food. For the cook, a knife is used so much that it often becomes an extension of their hand and arm. With time, every movement of the blade should becomes faster and more accurate. It is crucial to learn, obtain, and practice good knife skills in order to be proficient in the craft of cooking.

That being said, I love my knives and using them. I've invested a lot of money into my knives but always feel the need to buy just one more. I've owned my current set of knives for just over two years and have formed a relationship with them.

I've been chopping vegetables and mincing garlic since I was old enough to safely handle a knife and help in the kitchen. It's safe to say that I have spent a lot of time honing my knife skills but I know that I can always be better. I've sliced and diced my way through pounds of produce, poultry, and meat but I still know there's kilos more to go through.

I'm fanatical about maintaining the edge of my blades. When they're dull I relish the few minutes I spend sharpening them, I love using a sharpening stone. Taking long draws of the knife across the stone's wet surface and hearing the smooth noise of steel on stone with every pass of the blade. There's a precise angle, touch, and movement required to form a good edge. Sharpening takes skill and focus, I find that there's something very comforting and zen-like in the entire process of sharpening.

In fact, every movement of the knife should be focused and precise. Whether it be mincing a clove of garlic, honing the blade along a steel, making a chiffonade of herbs, brunoising shallots, or boning a chicken. I love using a knife, my knife. On occasion it's silver finish has been stained with my blood, and that makes me feel as if this simple tool has become even more of a part of me and who I am. Each time I pick up my chef knife there is a sense of familiarity and comfort, a feeling like I've come home.

braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaains!

2007-11-21T14:55:00.000-05:00

Whenever I'm talking to people about weird and unorthodox foods the topic of brains always comes up. Specifically, live monkey brains. I'm sick of hearing about this so called delicacy that's eaten in parts of East Asia. The consumption of brains as food is not uncommon. However, the belief of eating the brains from a live monkey is down right absurd.

The myth of live monkey brains was likely made popular by the film Faces of Death which staged the eating of live monkey brains. However, there also have been written accounts by people who have eaten or witnessed the eating of live monkey brains. I'm skeptical of these accounts as people can tend to embellish, alter or even fabricate events. A very good example of this is the 2003 memoir A Million Little Pieces written by James Frey.

Another, more familiar, example of monkey brain being served as food (although not live) is in the film Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. Chilled monkey brains are served as dessert to Indy and his companions by their Indian hosts. Two very important things should be noted:

Hindus are Lacto-Vegetarians.
The monkey is a sacred animal to Hindus.

Never the less, this film was banned in India for its negative portrayal of Indian people and their culture.

I can admit that there may be a possibility of eating cooked monkey brains. Cooked brains is not unusual as it is part of the fifth quarter of meat (offal). Recently, I stumbled upon Chef Chris Cosentino's blog Offal Good. In one entry he details his preparation of calf brains. In another entry he has photos of a market in Turino selling brains right next to testicles and other offal.

Offal is important part of meat and I'm nearly convinced it's responsible consumption of an animal. Brain could very well be good eats when cooked properly. However, the idea of strapping a monkey under a table, opening it's head like a tin can, and then trying to eat its brains all the while the poor monkey kicking and screaming is very unlikely. Just think of the mess...

All myths and urban legends have a deeper theme and underlying meaning. My interpretation of the myth is an underlying fear of the cuisine and practices of Eastern cultures. This myth likely started in the early to mid 1900s when Eastern cultures were being viewed as uncivilized and filled with ancient mysticism and superstition. Anyone from North America or Europe would obviously view Eastern cuisine as strange and unorthodox.

If you want to believe in eating live monkey brains then you may as well believe in the alligators living in New York sewer systems. Heck, I think Bigfoot has more physical and convincing "evidence" than monkey brains do.

red neck advice.

2007-11-19T12:11:00.000-05:00

Last night I was watching King of the Hill on television, it's one of my favourite series. Last night's episode was about organic food and Hank's quest to eat organic after buying tasteless meats and produce from his local supermarket. In the beginning of the episode Hank is grilling steaks for his friends and family. He offers this bit of advice to his son, Bobby Hill.

Hank Hill: Firm but with a little give. Yepp, these are medium rare.
Bobby Hill: What if somebody wants their's well done?
Hank Hill: We ask them politely yet firmly to leave. With great meat, son, comes great responsibility.

I've watched this show a long time and have heard plenty of good lines and bits of "advice". This is probably the best advice I've ever heard.

Ratatouille

2007-11-12T23:04:00.000-05:00

Disney Pixar released a brilliant film this past summer, Ratatouille. It tells the tale of a rat in Paris, Remy, who dreams nothing but to be a chef. The film follows the adventures of Remy as he forms an unusual partnership with a garbage boy, Linguine, in a famous restaurant. Combined, the duo come together to create some of the most outstanding food in Paris.

I love Pixar films. I had first year about this film in early 2007 and anxiously awaited its release In June. I watched every trailer, preview, interview, and behind the scene featurette I could. Ratatouille came to theatres June 29th but a sneak peak viewing of the movie occurred two weeks earlier. I eagerly attended the sneak peak and adored movie, I haven't watched it since the viewing in the theatre but I recently received the DVD as a gift from a close friend.

I love the script, the characters, the attention to detail, and the food. The film shows the importance of following one's dreams and being true to ourselves. We have to do what we love and not give up on who or what we are. Shakespeare expressed this very simply as, "To thine own self be true."

When Pixar Studios create a movie they immerse themselves into the world of that movie as to do the characters and story justice. For this film animators were given cooking lessons and even worked in a restaurant. Chef Thomas Keller was also taken on as a consultant for the film and allows animators to work in his restaurant the French Laundry. The pinnacle dish in the film was created and stylized by Chef Keller which was then animated.

Upon hearing the news that Chef Keller had a part in the creating process I knew this film was to be special. Thomas Keller has been something of an idol to me ever since I first heard about the French Laundry and read about it in Michael Ruhlman's novel The Soul of a Chef. Keller has won numerous awards for his work at the French Laundry and the restaurant has been acclaimed by a wide array of people to be one of the top restaurants in the United States and even the world. I will dine there one day.

The film touches me on a personal level because I can see parallels with the story and my life. I'm working towards doing something I am passionate about. In the past it has felt like there were forces against me and hindering me. I've now accepted what/who I am and what I love. To thine own self be true...

Oh yeah, I also like the film because of this guy:

Horst, one bad ass Sous Chef. He's killed a man with his thumb.

moving market.

2007-11-08T22:14:00.000-05:00

This weekend I'm having dinner with friends. Everyone is chipping in a bit of money and I'm making the food. I've decided not to make a meal but instead do finger foods. I like how finger foods allow everyone to just grab what they want, offer variation, and eat small bites through the night. I'm not doing anything especially unique and creative, I more just want to see my friends and have a good time.

I set out to buy some of the groceries for the event and visited two of my local Chinese supermarkets. I've never expressed this before but I love visiting Chinese grocery stores even if I'm not buying anything. I come from a Chinese family so going to these markets isn't new a thing, it's still always a welcome experience.

Walking through a Chinese market there's so many different things to experience, experiences which can't be found in the average supermarket or grocery store...

In the produce section there are dozens of vegetables that look the same but all have different tastes, characteristics, and even methods of cooking. There's an ample supply of exotic fruits and vegetables which have only begun to make their way into the common grocery stores. The prime example being pomegranate which is now all the rage and has become common fruit in every market. Ten years ago I only found it at the Asian grocery stores.

Every Asian supermarket always has a giant seafood section, often filled with still live animals. Multiple tanks swimming with fish, basins filled to the brim with bivalves and mollusks, and crustaceans crawling everywhere. The one notable crustacean I always see in every Chinese supermarket is the feisty blue crab. I always believed that they were ill tempered creatures that will pinch at anything be it a neighbouring crab, pair of tongs, or finger.

Another truly unique section is the meat department. The Asian culture is a true fan of head-to-tail eating. There's cuts of meat you don't find anywhere else and offal of all kinds. Intestines, Tongues, Stomach, Hearts, Lungs, Livers, and more. The one unique feature of the meat department is the smell; it's offensive, harsh, and oddly welcoming. It's hard to describe the smell other than it's not exactly pleasant, it does however let you know that you're buying meat. It was once an animal that was alive and was slaughtered so you purchase its carcass and eat it.

Overall there's something very organic and alive about the Asian market. There's a real reminder of life and food. Things aren't always as clean, there's always a lot noise, and always a sea movement. It shows life as it really is, things aren't always as polished as we think. And food can be the same way.

I'd like that well-med-rare-done

2007-10-31T23:00:00.000-04:00

The wedding reception was at a small inn, the food there was surprisingly good. For dinner there was an appetizer, entreé, and dessert. The appetizer consisted of a selection between a soup (leek and potato with stilton) or a basic salad with vinaigrette. For the entreé we had a selection of either Chicken, Beef, or Fish. Being a red meat lover I opted for the Beef.

Grilled Tenderloin of Beef
Topped with Wild Mushroom in a merlot sauce
Mashed Potatoes and Green Beans

Mushrooms, Mashed Potatoes, and Green Beans are hard to screw up. The only complaint I do have about the three of these sides is that the roasted Green Beans were not tender, they were well undercooked. I like vegetables cooked to be fork tender or al dente, whoever cooked the beans should have tasted and checked for doneness before plating.

I'm always wary whenever I order red meat, I like my red meat medium rare and I seldom receive it this way. Harold McGee's book, On Food and Cooking, defines medium rare as:

Meat temperature: 130°F/60°F
Doneness: Medium Rare, 135-145°F
Meat Qualities: Resilient to touch, less slick, more fibrous, releases juice when cut, opaque, ligther red.

The problem that arises is that the USDA defines meat doneness by the following scheme:

"Rare": 135-145°F
"Medium Rare": 145-155°F
"Medium": 155°F
"Well": 170°F

For all except well-done the suggested cooking temperatures by the USDA are approximately 10-15° degrees higher than the proper cooking temperature. I suppose this is for the safety of the general public but it's still a giant pet peeve of mine. There's nothing worse than paying $30 for a steak, ordering it medium rare, cutting into it, and then seeing a pink or grey-brown centre.

There's nothing I really have to say about the dessert they served. We had my father's wedding cake served with vanilla ice cream and a raspberry coulis.

I was impressed enough with the food that I spoke to the sales manager, Franklin, about possible employment. Once I finish university in December I want to get into a decent restaurant. I'm looking for a place that will allow me to learn and pick up the basic practical skills necessary to work and survive in a public kitchen. I chatted with Franklin for 5 minutes about my situation and what I wanted to do. He smiled at me, shook my hand firmly, and told me to apply when I'm ready. This place looks hopeful.

duck, duck, wonton.

2007-10-28T17:04:00.000-04:00

This past weekend was my father's wedding, we threw a miniature cocktail party at my house before the reception. I threw together a bunch of things that I thought people from both sides of the family would like. The food was passable but could have been a lot better if I had more time, I had to prep a lot the night before which lowered the quality of the food as it had to sit overnight.

Clock-wise from the top:

Roast Beef with cream cheese, parsley, and horse radish
Bruchetta Pomodoro
Smoked Salmon with cream cheese, dill, and capers

The one canapé I'm really proud of creating was an open-faced duck wonton. I had deep fried wonton skins to make a cup which I then first filled with caramelized Bartlett Pears and then shredded braised Duck leg. I didn't manage to get a picture of it but I will be definitely making it again in the near future. At first I originally wanted to do an Asian Mango Salsa with the Duck but was unable to find any Mango. Switching to Pears was a last minute decision. This was the most difficult canape to make and I was really worried, but I was fully satisfied with the results. There was a crispiness from the wonton skin, sweetness from the Pear, and a savoriness from the Duck.

This cocktail party was a good opportunity to flex my culinary muscles and work on creativity. I love cooking with Duck.

starting from scratch.

2007-10-23T12:37:00.000-04:00

I'm an aspiring cook that has never worked in the food industry and has yet to have any formal training. Right now, I'm a 22 year old student in university that's two months away from obtaining a Hons. BSc in Physical Sciences (Physics). When I tell people what I want to do in life I'm usually given a perplexed look followed by the condescending toned question, "why?" Here's why...

I grew up as sheltered and lonely child who watched a lot of TV. When I was 10 or 11 years old the afternoon television program I took a liking to was The Urban Peasant with James Barber. It was a simple 30 minute cooking program hosted by a man who had a passion for making wholesome and honest food. Watching that show made something inside me just turn on, food was suddenly important. I saw food as a way to be creative, a way to express myself, and a way to entertain and impress others.

I was left home alone a lot and started to play in the kitchen. I would cook the foods I saw on TV cooking shows or even attempt to recreate a dish I tried at a restaurant. I usually didn’t have all the ingredients, tools, or skills to make the food I wanted to but I was happy in the kitchen. It’s probably the first place I knew I was really happy.

At 11 years old the other kids in school would say they’d want to grow up to be things like a police officer, teacher, scientist, animator, or actor. The first thing I said I wanted to be when I grew up, “I want to be a chef.” I was teased, laughed at, and thought to be weird but I didn’t care. I was going to be a chef, I would go to culinary school, write cook books, be on TV, and own a restaurant.

Being born into an Asian family I was discouraged to grow up to be a chef, I should be a doctor, lawyer, dentist, or another high paying job. I eventually pushed/forced cooked aside and pursued the sciences. In my final years of high school I settled on the idea of being a teacher, which is how I got to be where I am now.

In the beginning of third year at university someone suggested several books on cooking for me to read (but that’s for another entry). Reading them, I started to seriously think about food and going to culinary school. Since that time I’ve gone back to my love and passion for food. Food is life and important.

I was happy in the kitchen, I always was, and I want to go back to that. I’d also like to think I have some natural talent at cooking and a somewhat decent cook. If I don’t try and live this dream I’ll regret it for the rest of my life, and I can’t live with regret that large. In a way I’ve reverted back to my 11 year old self where all I want to do is think about food and cooking.

This is this is my passion, this is how I define myself, this is love...

a warm plate.

2007-10-23T00:50:00.000-04:00

I’ve been thinking that I have needed something to help motivate my cooking as well as a place to write down my thoughts on all things food. I’ve had a journal for seven years but it has never been solely dedicated towards my passion of gastronomy, the culinary arts, and food. This will be place to express my thoughts, feelings, and ideas on food as well as present my own creations.

I’m still just beginning to learn this craft of cooking. I want to push myself to learn new skills, try new flavors, take risks, push boundaries, and grow creatively.

Here’s to a new beginning, cheers and bon appetite.